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Donatella Barbieri
Course Director, London College of Fashion
- Role: Members
- Email: d.barbieri@fashion.arts.ac.uk
- Interest: Costume; Scenography; Costume design for performance
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Statement:
I am continuing to explore the role of costume in performance and in the development of performance in my research and in my practice as a costume designer, currently working on Verdi’s ‘Rigoletto’, (dir. John Le Bouchardiere) and Tchaichovsky’s ‘The Queen of Spades’, (dir. Martin Lloyd Evans).
I am reflecting on the relationship between theory and practice in the paper I am preparing for the CHODA conference, which I am co-writing with Dr Anna Birch, which will also attempt to contextualise the L.E.M. physical workshops in terms of their relevance to the creation of performance / costume.
The international language of costume and performance – a subject dear to my heart – has found expression in the work with Professor Jana Zborilova at DAMU, in developing a short, costume based performance in April.
The co-hosting of the OISTAT symposium continues to develop opportunities for international collaborations.
Pedagogical approaches to the teaching of costume for performance are considered in the preparation of the workshops, the design for excellence lectures and the masterclasses for Scenofest at PQ 07. Equally the current validation of MA Costume for Performance at LCF and the co-supervision of PhD students continues to further the ongoing ambition to elevate the debate on costume for performance at academic level. The L.E.M. exhibition, in November, explored space relationships and movement as a starting point of the teaching and the creation of performance and of costume for performance.
View project(s):
- Rigoletto
- Designs for the Performer
View publication(s):
- Proposing an interdisciplinary, movement-based approach...
- An exploration of the application of the Laboratoire
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Dr. Djurdja Bartlett
Research Fellow, London College of Fashion
- Role: Members
- Email: d.b.bartlett@fashion.arts.ac.uk; djurdjabartlett@yahoo.co.uk
- Interest: Socialist fashion; Post-socialist fashion and consumption; Comparative fashion studies; Cultural theory
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Statement:
I conducted detailed research on comparison of socialist fashion in the different countries of Eastern Europe and Russia. The research covered both officially promoted dress codes and unofficial everyday dress practices. I analyzed them through changes in the concepts of time, class, taste and gender throughout the socialist period.
My current research is on the relationship between East European and Western fashion throughout the 20th and 21st century up to today. It investigates the inspirations they have drawn from each other’s cultures, the borrowings that have taken place, as well as the lost meanings in such translations on both sides.
I am also carrying out research on ethnic and urban dress in the countries of East Central Europe, the Baltic, Russia and the Caucasus, and the Balkans. This involves networking with experts on world dress and fashion from twenty-seven countries in the region. This work supplements my role as editor of Volume 9 of the Berg Encyclopedia of World Fashion and Dress.
View publication(s):
- In Russia, at Last and Forever: The First Seven Years o...
- Let Them Wear Beige: The Petit-bourgeois World of Offic...
- Fashion: the Spectre that Haunted Socialism (Forthcomin...
- East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus (Forthcoming)
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Professor Sandy Black
Professor of Fashion and Textile Design and Technology, London College of Fashion
- Role: Members
- Email: s.black@fashion.arts.ac.uk
- Website:
http://www.interrogatingfashion.org
http://www.tfrg.org.uk
- Interest: Knitwear, fashion and textiles design with particular emphasis on 3 dimensional aspects of design and realisation, incorporating mathematical principles. Inter-disciplinary design in social and cultural context; Innovation in knitwear particularly 3D and
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Statement:
My current research interests seek to Interrogate Fashion - its practice and design processes. I am developing projects that integrate old and new technologies and seek new ways to approach the design and creation of fashion-related products through the relationship between craft practices and advanced technology. A key concept underpinning this research is the notion developed with the Interrogating Fashion Research Cluster during 2005 of more responsible design that takes into account the wider environmental, ethical, social and individual needs of products and their users.
My personal research continues in knitwear utilising the potential of advanced technology for three-dimensional structures, and in particular the application of mathematical concepts to knitted artefacts and knitwear.
Drawing on my background in both knitwear design and mathematics, I am involved in personal research which is exploring new forms in the realisation of knitwear, using advanced technologies and based on mathematical concepts of topology.
Developing from Interrogating Fashion research group, (a Designing for the 21st Century EPSRC/AHRC funded initiative), I am currently Principal Investigator for a project Considerate Design for Personalised Fashion Products at LCF in collaboration with Cambridge Engineering Design Centre to assist designers in developing personalised, more sustainable fashion products to ultimately reduce fashion consumption but increase fashion delight.
Recent books include:
Eco Chic: the Fashion Paradox (Black Dog Publishing 2008,);
Fashioning Fabrics: contemporary textiles in fashion, (Black Dog Publishing 2006) ;
Knitwear in Fashion (Thames and Hudson 2002, 2005)
View publication(s):
- Eco Chic: the Fashion Paradox
- Trends in Smart Medical Textiles
- Fashioning Fabrics: Contemporary Textiles in Fashion
- Fashion and Function-Factors in the Development of Prot...
- Knitwear in Fashion
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Cally Blackman
Associate Lecturer, Central Saint Martins
- Role: Members
- Email: c.blackman@csm.arts.ac.uk
- Website: http://www.laurenceking.co.uk/product/100+Years+of+Fashion+Illustration.htm
- Interest: Fashion in early colour photography; fashion illustration; men’s wear; colonial dress in India
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Statement:
Having recently finished a photographic history of men’s wear in the C20th (Spring 2009), I now want to undertake some research in archives of early colour photography. I am interested in the authenticity of these little-known images in terms of their representation of notions of national identity and soon-to-be abandoned folk dress in the period immediately before the First World War, as well as exploring the links between portrait photographs and ‘high’ fashion.
I’m interested in the reciprocation of influences between colonials in India and the indigenous population from the eighteenth century onwards and what impact each had on the other. I would also like to research the life and work of fashion illustrator Francis Marshall.
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Alan Cannon-Jones
Senior Lecturer, London College of Fashion
- Role: Members
- Email: a.cannon-jones@fashion.arts.ac.uk
- Website:
http://www.texi.org/Consultancy.asp
http://www.dti.gov.uk/index.html
http://www.textilesociety.org.uk/pages/text.htm
- Interest: Clothing Technology; Garment Technology; Pattern Technology; Tailoring; Cutting; Technology related to Fashion
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Statement:
I work in the subject area of the “technical and technology” for fashion related disciplines. I attend conferences both as a delegate and speaker along with the major international clothing technology exhibitions.
My research and professional practice are interlinked within the areas of the “technical and technology” for the fashion industry. Working as a consultant and practitioner embraces both “hands on” and research opportunities. Attending exhibitions, fairs and conferences as either a delegate and/or a speaker on an international platform both informs my own knowledge and creates the opportunity to share information with my peers.
As a member and Hon. General Secretary for the Federation of Clothing Designers & Executives I am involved in regular meetings and seminars with practitioners on an international platform.
My professional practice embraces research as I work with International designers and companies. By being involved in the research for new projects I am then able to contribute to conferences and written works.
View project(s):
- Ocha and Garth consultancy work
- Daniel Hanson collections with Daniel Hanson and Bin Hu
- Vestis- re engineering of a waistcoat
View publication(s):
- A comparative study of the British and Italian Textile ...
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Dr. Sarah Cheang
Lecturer in Cultural Studies, London College of Fashion
- Role: Members
- Email: s.cheang@fashion.arts.ac.uk
- Interest: Material Culture; the Body; Gender; China and Britain; History; Imperialism
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Statement:
My work focuses on cultural exchange between East and West, with a special interest in Chinese material culture and the articulation of gender. My current research centres on two projects, both of which enable me to explore the boundaries of the self through fashion and material culture. The first examines the use of Chinese textiles in European and American domestic interiors between 1860 and 1950, where Chinese embroideries were ambiguously viewed as garments, as soft furnishings, as art and as bric-a-brac. The second concerns exoticism, fashion and corporeality, in a study of the history of femininity, fur and fashionable exotic pets. This work has developed from my previous research on Pekingese dogs, British women and sentimental forms of imperialism.
View publication(s):
- Selling China: Class, Gender and Orientalism at the Dep...
- Women, Pets and Imperialism: The British Pekingese Dog ...
- The Dogs of Fo: Gender, identity and Collecting
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Pamela Church Gibson
Reader in Cultural and Historical Studies, London College of Fashion
- Role: Members
- Email: p.church-gibson@fashion.arts.ac.uk
- Interest: Film and Fashion; Cultural and Historical Studies
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Statement:
I have continued my work around the complex relationship between film, fashion, fandom and the contemporary star system. I am now moving into new interdisciplinary territory as I examine the relationship between cities, cinema, consumption and gender in the post-war period. This was part of my contribution to and role within the now concluded ESRC funded project, 'Shopping Routes'. My work for this included two journal articles and an essay on 'Fashion and the Female Audience: the Post-war City on film’ in the berg anthology, 'Fashion's World Cities'. We all helped to curate a very successful exhibition at the V&A, 'The Swinging Sixties'.
In the wider remit of gender studies, contemporary critical theory and cinema, I have completed and published various essays. I have also published a complete reworking of an earlier BFI anthology, this one entitled 'More Dirty Looks: Gender, Pornography, and Power'(2004). I have recently curated a short season of films, Fashion on Film, for the Cinemateket in Oslo–there was a successful series of screenings in June and July 2007.
I am now writing an MA programme for a course that the LCF have asked me to set up, an MA in FASHION AND FILM. I am also working on a monograph on celebrity culture and fashion, together with a longer book project, which will continue to focus on the issues raised in our Shopping Routes project, tentatively entitled 'Cinema, Cities and Consumption 1945-1979'.
View publication(s):
- From Dancing Queen to Plaster Virgin ; Elizabeth and th...
- Fashion ,Fetish & Spectacle ; The Matrix Dresses Up – A...
- Otherness, Transgression and the Postcolonial Perspecti...
- You’ve Been in my Life So Long I Can’t Remember Anythin...
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Dr. Becky Conekin
Senior Research Fellow & Principal Lecturer in History & Cultural Studies, Course Director of the MA in the History & Culture of Fashion, London College of Fashion
- Role: Members
- Email: b.conekin@fashion.arts.ac.uk
- Website: http://www.showstudio.com/project/politicalfashion
- Interest: Modern cultural and social history, especially of 20th century Britain. Lee Miller & Vogue. History of models and modelling agencies ca. 1947-1960 in Paris and London. Psychoanalytic, gender, film and feminist theories. National identity.
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Statement:
I am a modern historian and all of my work shares questions of identity and its cultural formations in the 20th Century. I co-edited and contributed to Moments of Modernity: Reconstructing Britain, 1945-1951 while still a PhD student. That volume combined social and political history, thinking through what modernity meant for post-war Britain. In The Autobiography of a Nation: The 1951 Festival of Britain, I used the 1951 events across the UK as a prism through which to analyse a society and a government recasting national identity after WWII. Then, initially under the auspices of the AHRB-funded, ‘Fashion and Modernity’ project, I worked on Lee Miller. Miller participated in key circles of modern art in New York, Paris and London, as a photographer, artist, model, gourmet and surrealist hostess. She was employed by Vogue, first as model and then as photographer and war correspondent, for the majority of her 25-year career. I co-edited the special 10th anniversary Fashion Theory (March/June, 2006), dedicated to Vogue magazine and wrote on Miller there. Uncharacteristically, for an academic journal, that issue was mentioned in ‘In Vogue’ and received positive reviews in two UK weekend broadsheets. I have spoken on Miller in Berkeley, Paris, Florence, Philadelphia, Toronto, Cambridge and London and my work on her has been quoted in Numero. I am currently embarking on my second monograph, ‘Model Girls’ in 1950s London & Paris: Gendered Identities and Employment, for which I have received a British Academy Fellowship. I have held fellowships at the University of Michigan, Ann Arbor, the University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaign, CRASSH at the University of Cambridge, and the Ecole des Hautes Etudes en Sciences Sociales in Paris.
View publication(s):
- The politics of appearance: Lee Miller’s creative life ...
- Lee Miller: Model, Photographer & War Correspondent in ...
- Fashion and Modernity
- The Autobiography of a Nation: The 1951 Festival of Bri...
- The Englishness of English Dress
- Fun and Fantasy, Escape and Edification: The Battersea ...
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Amy de la Haye
Reader in Material Culture and Fashion Curation, London College of Fashion
- Role: Members
- Email: a.de-la-haye@fashion.arts.ac.uk
- Interest: Fashion exhibitions; Museology; Women’s Land Army
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Statement:
I am curating an exhibition about the Women’s Land Army (WLA) which will open at Brighton Museum in Autumn 2009. It is a clothing focused exhibition which, as well as examining the WLA, will serve as a case study in material culture analysis. Displays will include a section entitled 'Exploding an Object' which will – visually and textually – explore the multiple interpretations and curatorial interventions that can be made working with the corduroy breeches worn by the women. I am also hoping to write a book to accompany the exhibition.
With Judith Clark, I am co-authoring the first book devoted to the discipline of curating fashion. As a trained dress historian and curator I will explore history and current practice and Judith, as a qualified architect and curator, will focus upon design and installation issues. We will ask for statements from international fashion curators, retired and currently working.
I am consultant on London couture for the V&A’s forthcoming exhibition on Paris and London couture 1947-1957 and have just written 5,000 words text on this subject for the publication.
View project(s):
- Fashion & Fancy Dress: The Messel Family Dress Collect...
- Catherine Walker: 25 Years (1977-2002) British Couture
View publication(s):
- Vogue & the V&A Vitrine: An exploration of how British...
- Material Evidence: London Couture 1947-1957
